If you do that, there is a wire over at the bulkhead that will have to be connected. If that is what you have, and you are going to keep it, you may need to run the charging circuit through the firewall separately. Trouble often arises because there are a lot of 60 amp alternators floating around these days.The bulkhead connector is barely adequate for a 45 amp alternator (it is fine for the first 30 years or so). Cars with a factory 60 amp alternator (police cars mostly) had a separate harness for the charging circuit going through the firewall with no connectors. Mopars of the period that had 35 or 45 amp originally (basically all of them) ran the charging circuit through the bulkhead connector. The three common types are 35 amp, 45 amp, and 60 amp. Now, about your alternator, How many amps is it? The double pulley implies 45 amp, but you sure cant depend on that. Electronic voltage regulators (and an extra wire to the alternator) came in 70, and electronic ignition came in 73. Wiring was basically the same with minor changes for many years. In addition for the wiring diagrams, get the pinouts for the bulkhead connector for 72 and 73.Ī 1973 engine harness may make more sense if all the circuits are the same at the bulkhead connector. Mopar wiring harnesses of that period plug together at the firewall with the dreaded "bulkhead connector". I would get wiring diagrams for 72 and 73. Good luck with the great new project and keep us up to date! It will tend to stay a little longer as this General Discussion forum moves reasonably quick and your post may get lost after a couple of days. Make sure you scroll down a little ways and put a post on the Dodge forum here as well. You can find tons of free advice here from some real knowledgeable guys and it's free. Very nice, expensive, but I had no choice. The replacement harness for my '38 coupe was almost $1,000 from Rhode Island. But for a car from the 70's it will be A LOT MORE WORK to replace the entire harness and certainly a lot more money. I have also bought complete harnesses when need be, usually on my real vintage stuff that has old cloth covered wire. Pick any one to start with and just follow each wire from one end to the other, component to component. There are only a few circuits under your hood. It is large, 11" X 17", laminated so you can have it under the hood without ruining it and it is super easy to read as all the wires are the exact same colors as the harness in your car. I buy this exact one for EVERY vintage car I get and it is the BEST investment I can make for under $20. The picture is generic, but it gives you the basic idea. Here is where I'd start go to eBay and purchase this year/model specific wiring diagram (I've added the link below). If this were my car, I'm certain I'd have it running in no time. If all those wires were wrapped it wouldn't function any better than it does right now but it wouldn't look so bad either. From the picture you posted all I see is an unwrapped harness which can look a little intimidating at first. As you can see by the posts you've already received here, there are two camps of thought toss the old harness and start new or repair the one you have. I like it and find it's usually a lot simpler than it first looks (like arithmetic, it's either right or wrong and you know immediately). None of the systems are too difficult on that platform, so this should be a fairly easy car for you to "makes your bones" with, even if you're a beginner. Small block '72 Dart.nice! That's a pretty cool car to be passed to you.
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